A dreamy location full of beautiful towns, nice beaches, curvy roads, delicious foods, and amazing views.

It’s easy for someone to get overwhelmed here with all the crowds and travel logistics, but my plan was look beautiful, eat good food, and people watch all the stressed tourist instead of becoming one myself. It actually went really well. It’s easier to stay relaxed when you pad your travel time a bit. This reduces the urgency and the tension.

I carried around my day pack every day which included my work computer, computer and phone chargers, external battery, and electric converter/adapter. This allowed me to easily work from parks, cafes, restaurants without stressing about how to get back home in time for the workday.

I stayed at the cheapest place I could find to book on the Almafi Coast, it ended up being the perfect location! La Vela is a cute bed and breakfast owned by a man and his father. It is located in San Michele, between Almafi and Agerola, and is uphill from the Fiordo di Furore.

Here are the notable places that I visited.

All the stairs

Not a specific place, but worth noting. I walked between towns and from bus stops and took so many stairs – sometimes while carrying all of my luggage! The stairs worked my calves and my heart, the hills between the stairs worked my booty. I feel like the locals should have excellent cardiovascular health!

The busses

The buses are very crowded and you need to buy your ticket from a nearby convenience store or hotel. If I was lucky, I got to sit in a seat. Otherwise, standing room was offered. We all piled in. The roads were so curvy that it was easy to get dizzy. The busses would toot their horns to warn oncoming cars when they were approaching a narrow passageway. Sometimes, the oncoming car would have to reverse to let the bus through. Often, the negotiation between drivers would be accompanied by waving their hands in a very Italian fashion.

The ferries

Ferries are more relaxing than the busses and offer a different view of the coast. I took a ferry from Positano to Almafi. This was also an economical way to get on the water as opposed to booking a boat tour.

La Vela Bed & Breakfast

The perfect home base! An easy bus ride to Almafi, a 30 minute walk consisting mainly of stairs to the Fiordo di Furore, a lovely daily breakfast, and also right across the street from the restaurant with the dreamiest meal I had on the Almafi Coast.

Bianca Zita Ristorante

I had no idea what to expect from this restaurant. All I knew was that it was the only restaurant nearby my hotel, it was closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, and it was very highly rated. I arrived in sweatpants. They told me they only had fish available and that it was a four course meal. I told them that would be lovely.
The food was so fresh, so good, and so filling. I fought to finish the last bite because it was so much food and I didn’t want to waste something so incredible!

Phew!!! I thought I had lost count when a fifth dish appeared. Five seafood plates, a sorbet palette cleanser, a sorbet dessert, and 3 glasses of wine later, and it only cost 66€! Not bad at all for the Almafi coast!!! I think the price was that good because the location was away from the crowds.

Ravello

A hard town to get to this time; apparently there is some road construction. I finagled my way onto a minibus for 2€. It was a pleasant town to explore for a few hours. I enjoyed the wine and looking at all the ceramic decorations

Fiordo di Furore

Quite the surprise, I didn’t even know Fiordo di Furore existed prior to this trip. A quiet beach apparently known to tourists, but no as overcrowded as other places. I’m glad I lived so close.

Positano

The most popular destination on the Almafi Coast, for good reason! I went shopping and bought a few really cute outfits! I dipped my toe in the water, but it was too crowded, and there were other beaches more welcoming. I enjoyed Positano for the shops, people, restaurants, and views. The best bus stop for Positano is on the south side of the town, “Positano (Sponda)”. I walked away from the crowds and ordered a pizza from a restaurant with a sign saying “BEST PIZZA.” I have no complaints. Most restaurants close during the heat of the day, and I was able to dine there right before the afternoon close.

Almafi

A pretty place to wander. Twinkle lights adorn the trees as the sun starts to set. A place where I caught the bus at the end of the day. I tussled with the crowded to get my seat on a bus to Agerola.

Ristorante Pineta 1903

Located in Maiori, this is where the restaurant owner introduced me to Lemoncello’s more delicious friend, Fogliolino, which is made from the leaves of the lemon. So good. Its courtyard has more lemons than the entire “Path of the Lemons”.

The Path of the Lemons

A route between Maiori and Minori. Hardly any lemons that you could see for free. You could pay to visit one of the lemon orchards, but I didn’t do that.

Atrani

A cute town with a lot of stone buildings close together. Just south of Almafi. I was not able to enjoy much time here because I was eager to find an internet signal for an important meeting with my boss. The stone buildings and tall cliffs did not help with my pursuit for a signal, and it was during the heat of the afternoon when all the restaurants were closed. I quickly walked from Atrani to Almafi until I found a signal.